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The 101 FAQ

Version 0.04 DRAFT
Editor: 101 List Moderator
April 15, 2001

    Section 1 General

      1.1 About the 101 FAQ
      1.2 The 101 Email list
      1.3 The 101 Forward Control Club & Register
      1.4 101 Web sites
      1.5 101 Parts suppliers
      1.6 101 Books
      1.7 Magazine Articles about 101s
      1.8 101 Buying Guide
      1.9 101 History
      1.10 Notable 101 Personalities

    Section 2 The Most Frequently Asked Questions

      2.1 Is that front propshaft noise normal?
      2.2. What lubricant do I use in the gearbox and transfer case?
      2.3 What about Unleaded gas
      2.4 Why won't my 101 start?
      2.5 Is it legal to import a 101 to N. America?
      2.6 What is involved in Importing a 101 to other Countries:
      2.7 What kind of gasoline/petrol consumption can I expect with a 101?
      2.8 Where can I find out more about my 101's history?

    Section 3 Repairs and Ideas by SubSystem

      3.1 Engine Tuning
      3.2 Engine
      3.3 Fuel System
      3.4 Cooling System
      3.5 Manifold and Exhaust System
      3.6 Clutch
      3.7 Gearbox
      3.8 Prop Shafts
      3.9 Rear Axle and Final Drive
      3.10 Front Axle and Final Drive
      3.11 Steering
      3.12 Front Suspension
      3.13 Brakes
      3.14 Wheels and Tyres
      3.15 Body
      3.16 Paintwork
      3.17 Heating and Ventilation
      3.18 Windscreen wipers and washers
      3.19 Electrical
      3.20 Instruments
      3.21 Optional Equipment - winch
      3.22 Service Tools
      3.23 Radio Body Specifics
      3.24 Ambulance Body Specifics
      3.25 Vampire Body Specifics
      3.26 Etc and Misc

Section 1 General

    1.1. About the 101 FAQ
      This FAQ was compiled by the moderators of the list utilizing the message archives and the latest version of this FAQ can be found at:

      You are free to repost or redistribute this FAQ but you should include this section, 1.1 "About the 101 FAQ" with whatever portion of the FAQ you utilize.

    1.2 The 101 email list:
      The list is used by 101 owners and others with a 101 interest to exchange information about 101 FCs and to meet each other.

      For more information on the 101 list and to join the list see:

    1.3 The 101 Forward Control Club & Register:
      This is a must join for any serious 101 enthusiast as you then get the club newsletter. Certain parts that are unique to the 101 are no longer available through regular vendors. The 101 FCC & R is remanufacturing these parts and they are only available to club members.

      More information about the 101 Forward Control Club and Register is at

    1.4 Other 101 sites

    1.5 101 Parts Suppliers:
      101 Forward Control Club & Register

        Alfold Road, Dunsfold, Surrey, GU8 4NP, England
        Tel: 01483 200567 Fax: 01483 200738

      John Craddocks
        70-76 North Street, Bridgetown,
        Cannock, Staffs. WS11 3AZ, England
        Tel: 01543 577207 Fax: 01543 504818

      PA Blanchards
        Clay Lane, Shiptonthorpe, York,
        YO43 3PU England
        Tel: 01430 872765 Fax: 01430 872777
        Web: Unknown

      Keith Gott
        Greenwood Farm, Old Odiham Road,
        Alton, Hampshire GU34 4BW England
        Tel: 01420 544330 Fax: 01420 544331
        Web: Unknown

        In addition many of the 101 parts were the same as used as on other Land Rover vehicles at the time (brakes are from a Series III 1-ton, etc) so if the part is not unique to the 101, you may have luck sourcing some parts through a local vendor.

    1.6 101 Books:

      The references you want to obtain are:

      Name Part Number
      or Date
      Repair/Operation Manual RTC 9120 in Print
      Parts Catalogue 608294B in Print
      User Manual 608239 in Print
      User Manual Amendment List No 1 February 1976 Waiting to be scanned
      User Manual Amendment List No 2 October 1976 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office
      User Manual Amendment List No 3 February 1977 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office
      User Manual Amendment List No 4 November 1977 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office
      User Manual Amendment List No 5 March 1978 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office
      User Manual Amendment List No 6 June 1978 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office
      Waterproofing Manual (non-color) February 1990 PDF Web thanks to Alistair Worsley
      By permission of HMSO Copyright Office

    1.7 Magazine Articles about 101s (compiled by Ben Smith)

      LRM, Land Rover Monthly magazine,

        Article Date Page
        "Celebrating in the USA"
        (photo of 2 pre-productions)
        October 1988 p. 8
        "Interview with the Vampire Owners" November 1998 p. 86
        "Off to Roam 101" January 1999 p. 68
        "A Day on the Beach" January 1999 p. 140
        "Snow Ball" February 1999 p. 58
        "101 in a Million" May 1999 p. 110
        101 Ambulance photo August 1999 p. 63
        "Rapid Recovery" 1999 p. 92
        LHD GS photo September 1999 p. 38
        Sad 101 Ambulance photo September 1999 p. 73
        101 Ambulance photo October 1999 p. 106
        101 GS photo November 1999 p. 148
        101 GS photo January 2000 p. 162
        "Land Rovers Great and Small" March 2000 p. 72
        "Twenty Five Years Later" June 2000 p. 78
        "Red Cross and Vampires" July 2000 p. 74
        "25 years of the 101" July 2000 p. 80

      LROI, Land Rover Owner International,

        Article Date Page
        "Forward Controls" May 1988 p.28
        "Military Scene - The 101 Part 1" May 1989 p. 20
        "Military Scene - The 101 Part 2" June 1989 p. 20
        "101 Club get-together AT Tong" June 1989 p. 25
        "Ambulances and 101s" November 1989 p. 21
        "101 for Africa - Mobile Clinic" April 1990 p. 11
        "Rovers Return - 101 Prototype" October 1990 p. 18
        "On Safari in Algeria in a 101" September 1990 p. 47
        "Clubs - 101 FC and Lightweight" August 1992 p. 34
        "Forward Control 101 One Ton Tractors" April 1993 p.29
        "Conversion - Land Rover 101 Special" November 1993 p. 86
        "Cape Town by 101" April 1994 p. 186
        "Land Rover Story - Part 39 101 Forward Control" August 1994 p. 180
        "101 Pristine Restoration" January 1996 p. 6
        "Canada coast to coast in a 101" May 1997 p. 86

      LRW, Land Rover World,

        Article Date Page
        "Full Metal Jacket" Winter 1993 p. 34
        "Fitted for Radio"
        (photo of GS and Ambulance only)
        January 1995 p. 96
        "Clash of the Titans" March 1995 p. 58
        "On Maneuvers" September 1995 p. 56
        "On the Road"
        (Judge Dredd 101)
        November 1995 p. 54
        "In Brian We Trust"
        (photo of prototype and coil sprung 101)
        December 1995 p. 25
        "Forward Thinking" March 1996 p. 18
        "Body Building"
        (article on Marshalls, but includes 101s)
        May 1996 p. 16
        "Forward Motion" May 1996 p. 136
        "Land of the Free" June 1996 p. 68
        "Dunsfold Diary" August 1996 p. 32
        "The Maine Event" (photo) October 1996 p. 34
        "Dunsfold Diary" October 1996 p. 50
        "Troop Carrier" December 1996 p. 80
        Photos January 1997 pp. 31, 79,
        81, 94
        "Dirty Tricks" April 1997 p.18
        "Dunsfold Diary" June 1997 p.42
        "Army Dreamers" (photos) October 1997 p.80
        "Nuts and Bolts" April 1998 p.120
        "Brothers in Arms" May 1998 p.78
        "Massive Attack" August 1998 p.97
        "Dunsfold Diary" December 1998 p.30
        "A Twist of Sand" April 2000 p.6

    1.8 101 Buying Guide
      (in preparation by Gerald)

    1.9 101 History
      (to be written)

    1.10 Notable 101 Personalities
      Please submit nominations to the 101 list.

Section 2. The Most Frequently Asked Questions

    2.1 Is that front propshaft noise normal?
      Yes, many/most 101s have a rumbling sound coming from the front prop shaft, especially when coasting - ie front shaft is spinning rapidly but not being driven by engine power. The extreme angle of the front propshaft causes this vibration.

    2.2. What lubricant do I use in the gearbox/transmission and transfer case?
      It is generally agreed that engine oil is used in the gearbox and transfer case, usually 20W50 (The gearbox/transmission is the "front" assembly with the gear shift lever on the top. The transfer case is the "rear" assembly)

    2.3 What about Unleaded gas
      You can run a 101 on unleaded without replacing any parts. If there is a drastic change in octane, a timing adjustment may be needed.

    2.4 Why does my 101 start, run for a bit and then stop?
      Besides all the regular reasons, the 101 has an oil pressure switch which must read a certain pressure. Many owners bypass this switch.

      There is enough gas in the carbs to fire the engine. The oil pressure switch only cuts off fuel, not spark. Therefore, a properly adjusted engine will start right up, build oil pressure, close the switch, fuel pump goes on, truck continues to run, jog, sprint whatever.

    2.5 Is it legal to import a 101 to N. America?

    2.6 What is involved in Importing a 101 to other Countries:
      We welcome anyone who has information to post it to the 101 list.

    2.7 What kind of gasoline/petrol consumption can I expect with a 101?
      The User Manual claims 5 km / liter or 14.2 imperial miles/gallon. Reports from the list have been anything from 8.5 US miles/gallon to 18 US miles/ gallon

    2.8 Where can I find out more about my 101's history?

      VIN Tracing #1132 bens May 23, 2000

      101 Build Date and Delivery Data #1142 Quintin Aspin May 24, 2000
        There are two places you can try. The first is:
        They have most of the UK military records and while they prefer to have the mil number they can look up details by chassis number. Wally Dugan was the curator there but I am not sure he is still there.

        The other place is:
          British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
          Archive Department
          Heritage Motor Centre
          Banbury Road Gaydon, Warwick CV35 OBJ
          telephone from the US: 011-44-1926-641188
          fax from the US: 011-44-1926-645103

        You can down load the application at:

        If it is simple information you require if you call these folks up and ask they can give you the build date and delivery data OVER THE PHONE. To get something in writing you have to submit the form and send them 10 pounds. The written form is acceptable for US customs BTW.

        There is also product tracability at Land Rover ( FORD ???? ) but they only have a COPY of the build books now at Gaydon.

Section 3 Repairs and Ideas by Subsystem

    These are from the 101 message archive at They are listed by description (which may not be the same as the original title) Message Archive #, author and date.

    3.1 Engine Tuning
      A point about points #570 Sep 30, 1999

        In a message dated 09/29/1999 12:21:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, WreckerFC@a... writes:

        > I've finally driven my 101 up from NYC to our home here in sunny >upstate NY (some 4 hours no less) and I want to know if my timing/carb >has previously been set up for higher octane, leaded UK petrol which >is causing the pinging/pinking when under load.

        Hi Howard,
        I had the exact same situation when I first picked up my 101 and drove it home...drove me nuts on every hill, mountain and molehill. The cause was a very small SPOT, easily corrected. The previous owner had incorrectly installed the points set in the distributor. On the bottom of the points is a small "rod"....this is intended to pass through the baseplate and be placed into a hole in the lever connected to the vacuum advance unit on the side of the distributor. Very easily missed, and the results are NO advance under high vacuum (load) conditions resulting in pinging and possible engine damage.
        Hopefully this is your 101's problem, as it's a free fix!
        Cheers, Eric.

      US Rover V8 shop #905 Chris "V" Feb 27, 2000
        Try Woody at the Wedge shop in Taunton MA 508-880-5448 All he specializes in is the Rover V8

    3.2 Engine
      Long Reach Spark plugs #406 Andy Smith Date: 4 May 1999
        Long reach plugs as in NGK bpr5es or equivalent.

      Electronic ignitions, Buick parts #764 WreckerFC Jan 12, 2000
        Having recently had to deal with a blown ballast resistor - a replacement was acquired at my local NAPA, I have also been following up another route... Namely a complete HEI distributor (coil in the cap) from an '84 Buick Electra. I have one from a scrappy (junk yard) ready to fit but haven't gotten around to it. Jared has already done this conversion and it works fine.
        You get electronic ignition, US spares of course, and can do away with the 6v coil and ballast resistor. Only one mod is required, that being changing one of the inlet manifold bolts from hex head to Allen.

        Jared reckons any '80's Buick V8 distributor should do. Front mounted, as opposed to rear mounted GM.

        Howard (In the US!.... maar uit engeland :o)

      Carb Idle, Plugs #778 Darren Parsons Jan 20, 2000
        The fast idle screw is only used in conjunction with the choke. (There is also a cold start unit associated with the choke, this needs to be in the correct position depending on which side of -18' C the ambient temperature is.) The fine adjustment screws that are used for balancing are also used to set idle. The carbs need to balanced as you adjust the idle on both screws until you reach the desired idle speed. Ideally the timing should be set first (Without the vacuum advance pipe attached) Or you will find when you adjust the timing later the idle speed again will be incorrect.

        Carbon fouling on one plug from each bank points to only one carb being rich? Maybe. Each carb feeds the two inner cylinders on the opposite side of the carb and the two outer cylinders either side of the carb. If you pull a plug from No1 and No5 they should be the same colour, this will give a good indication that the fuel adjustments on both carbs are equal.

        Best of luck
        >From: Benjamin Allan Smith bens@g...
        > This is beginning to get the better of me. And that pisses me off.
        >I've got the dwell set correctly. I haven't set the timing (more on that in a bit).
        >New plugs and new wires. The points were cleaned up. I've played all across
        >the board with the mixture screws, now I'm roughly back to 3 turns from
        >touching the air valve. All of the vacuum holes are connected as they are
        >supposed to be And she still won't start without starter fluid nor will she idle
        >below 1000 rpm. The exhaust is clear.
        >I pulled 4 of the plugs today; 2 from each bank. one from each bank looked
        >carbon fouled and the others looked normal. This is when I put the mixture
        >back 2 full turns (one at a time). I could play the mixture game but moving
        >the air valves while it is running and seeing what happens, but I can't get
        >her down to 650 rpm to test this.
        >The books shows nice timing marks on the crank as it exists the engine.
        >Neither of my engines have these marks. So the timing is as it was when
        >the 101 that the engine came out of rolled in 1985 or 1986. I could use
        >the screwdriver down the #1 bore to find TDC, but that's a tad hard by
        >I'm tempted to just time it by ear and see what happens.
        >How are you supposed to set the idle speed anyway. I see the fine
        >adjustments for balancing the carbs. And I see a screw that engages the
        >cam for the choke. This screw seems like the one to use, but the book
        >calls it the "fast idle screw". I'm using it for now...
        > So any ideas, criticisms or outright flames? I'm half tempted to take
        >it down to a Land Rover dealer and tell them to fix it. (The '87 Rangies
        >had carbs, it should be close enough). Though the look on their faces when I
        >pull up would be priceless.

      Plugs and Choke #790 Ben Smith Jan 20, 2000
        > Choke cable broke--- where do I access it, seem like through the
        > radiator ( I didn't see anything in the manual for the hand pull end )

        The cable drops down ahead of the radiator into the tunnel in front of the radiator, from there it follows the frame back on the right hand side. then it comes up and crossed over to the left carb in front of the carbs. (Tom had a RHD 101).
        >got 3.5 rangey plugs, wires and rotor to install.
        >Is the coil/points the same as a 3.5 rangey

        The standard plugs, Champion L92Y, I was able to pick up at Pep Boys without any problems. I dunno what you have, but the Champion catalog lists RN11YC4s as being used on the 3.5 RR V8 (same as the 3.9s). For the 3.5 L Rover V8s built from 1972 to 1975 the Champion Book Lists the L92YC

        RN11YC4 means
          R = Resistor
          N = is the shell design 14mm thread size, reach 3/4" hex 11/16"
          11 = is the heat range/application where 1 to 25 is Automotive, Small engine and ordinance
          Y = (Firing end design) Standard projected nose cone
          C = (Firing end design) Copper plus design
          4 = Wide gap designation to meet federal and california requirements

        L92Y means
          L = shell design: 14mm thread size, 1/2" of .472" reach, and 13/16" hex
          92 = head range/application for industrial and special applications (75 to 99)
          Y = (Firing end design) Standard projected nose cone

        > Like Ben, I idle fairly high... I'll have get to that also

        From looking at what I'll have to do, beware of the idle, you'll have to turn a screw for each carb. Then you will have to re balance the carbs with each other. (testing the flow into each).

      Electronic Ignitions #837 GNBull Feb 10, 2000
        >What electronic ignition options are available for the FC101 1v GS?

        Pertronix (best value) Lumenition and stock Efi Range Rover/Disco electronic ignition. I currently run Land Rovers using all three. I think the pertronix unit is the best with lumenition a close second. The Range Rover unit is by far the worst. Expensive and unreliable. If you use Pertronix, get one of their epoxy filled coils. Very rugged, waterproof coils designed to work with the Pertronix igniter. Never had any problems with this set up.

      Pertronix Ignitions #661 GNBull Nov 12, 1999
        >Who makes Pertronix and where are they sold??

        Pertronix is made by Pertronix. The ignition module is actually called "Igniter" They are made in the USA and available at speed shops. There is a place in Colorado called CBS that sells them and they advertise in Hemmings. They are not the cheapest but they aren't a rip off either. I think the Igniter goes for about $80 US and the coils are between $40 or $50 bucks. Their phone number is 1 -719 632 1492 or 1 800 685 1492. I don't know if Pertronix is sold down under. You could just call CBS, buy it with a credit card, and have them send it normal parcel post. Might take a little while but the shipping would be pretty cheap since the whole thing probably weighs less than a pound.

        If you decide to go with the Pertronix unit, buy their coil since they need a higher than normal resistance coil. If you use a low resistance coil as found on normal points vehicles, you will burn out the Pertronix unit over time. Pertronix gives you the coil specs and there are many high resistance coils on the market, it's not a particularly special part, most modern EFi systems use high resistance coils. However, Pertronix coils are very good quality and matched to the Igniter unit. They system is a straight forward swap, should take all of a half hour and then you don't have to deal with points anymore. Vehicles start better on damp days and weak spark is not a problem. I always have a set of new points handy in the unlikely event the Pertronix craps out.


      Oil Pressure Switch Info #693 d.h.lowe Nov 28, 1999
        Howard, The oil switch is "normally closed" (no oil pressure) between the P contact and the S contact (check which ones if they are not marked) and consequently when the ignition switch is put in the "start" position power goes through to the oil switch through the brown red wire, across the normally closed contact and exits through the white/yellow wire to the fuel pump. When the ignition switch returns to the "run" position power no longer goes through the brown/red wire but comes through the white wire to the I contact on the pressure switch. The engine of course by this time is running and so the oil switch has swung over and is now closed from P to I contacts thus allowing power to go to the pump through the white/yellow again. The oil pressure indicator light is connected, through another white/yellow wire to the "run" side of the ignition switch and then to the P contact of the pressure switch. This bulb has a high resistance and therefore will not allow enough current to flow to operate the pump if the ignition is left in the "on" position. When the engine starts, and the oil switch has changed to connect P to I the voltage coming down the white wire also connects at the terminal to the white/yellow wires thus the voltage on both sides of the oil light bulb is the same and of course the light goes out. Dave

        > Dave - cheers for the info. Especially the oil pressure switch. That is
        > something I think is a little suspect any way. Ever tried to follow the
        > specific circuitry of the switch and its operation relative to the key
        > switch position and the oil pressure light - I'm not to sure the book is
        > correct! As for the capillary tube/temp gauge, I think I'll keep to the
        > standard if I can and save the three holes for other things and look
        > Into getting mine repaired - Jared reckons that is the easy way out rather
        > than getting a correct one shipped!

      Luminition, Pertronix, K&N and Coil Info #1134 gnbull May 23, 2000
        >George, any coil-preferences?
        >K&N: two direct attached to the carbs or one large in the stock air filter?
        >Regards Hans.

        On my 101 I created a weird ignition set up that is hybrid 12/24 volt. However, I used Lumenition with a later Range Rover spec EFI coil. That set up works well but I wouldn't recommend it other than the Lumenition.

        On another Rover I run, I use a Pertronix Igniter with a Pertronix HD epoxy filled coil. This system works extremely well and is very robust and resistant to vibration, heat, moisture, etc. It is also reasonably priced. I paid about $75 for the Igniter and $40 for the coil. The advantage of Pertronix is there is no separate module and you can easily revert to points (just like Luminition) if it fails. It is very reliable, increases spark and has no moving parts that need adjustment or replacement. With both Pertronix and Lumenition it is important to use a coil with relatively high resistance (i.e. 3 to 4 Ohms) otherwise you risk burning the units out. A good ground is also essential. In both scenarios, I ditched the ballast resistor which I personally feel is junk. This is not a problem with the electronic units as long as the coil has enough internal resistance.

        As for air filters, I personally would not use a set up where the filters are directly attached to the carbs because it means you have to keep the filters exposed. There is just too much debris moving around under the hood. The entire engine in my Range Rover is baked in clay - everything is red and covered with at least a few mm of hard clay except for the belts! If I had exposed air filters I would have stalled the engine and plugged the filters! The mud hole I was in was about the worst place for that to happen. I have also run my 101 in deep mud/water for hours at a time and water and mud was regularly sprayed in the engine bay. Even in the less than ideal location behind the front wheel, my stock filter rarely swallowed water or mud and when it did it was not too much for the filter (stock at the time) to handle. Land Rover filtration overall is excellent and although it is at times a bit restrictive, it is designed for maximum reliability and engine longevity not horsepower. Any power gained by a less restrictive intake (ie less plumbing) will soon be lost when the valves and con rod bend after one of the carbs swallows some water:)

        I would definitely use the air filter canister system, be it stock or modified. I use one K&N filter in the stock canister. I forget the part number but the air filter is designed for a 500hp Lola race car so I'm sure filter restriction is not a problem. Plus it is large enough that it will have to collect a lot of debris before it is restricting the 3.5 V8. I use K&N filters because they have superior filtering abilities and are reusable and field cleanable.

        For the record, I'm sure the K&N helped the engine breath a bit better but you would never know the difference from driving it. I think the biggest breathing problems on a 101 3.5 have to do with the intake plumbing, carbs and exhaust manifold and not the heads or filters. The Lumenition did make a noticeable difference - nothing dramatic but noticeably better and more consistent.

        If I were to improve the performance of the 3.5, the first thing I would do is go with a set of SUs then I would work on a less restrictive exhaust. For off road/expedition use I would personally keep cast manifolds for durability/reparability/heat control but would use either later EFi type manifolds or ideally J.E. Engineering ones. I'd run slightly larger exhaust tubing and a free flow muffler. That is about as far as I would go because to really benefit from more improvements the compression should really be bumped up. However, my main goal is to access remote areas and not to have screaming acceleration or high top speed so high compression becomes more of a liability than an asset. For example Mauritanian fuel is bad enough on low compression engines and would probably destroy high compression ones. My 101 sounded like a diesel with a faulty distributor pump - and that is after the octane booster went into the fuel.

        George Bull

      Buick Distributor #1247 jared Jun 19, 2000
        > This subject may have been covered before, so please forgive.
        > What kind of distributor can be swapped for the 24V OME. I've
        > read about changing the wire ends on the 24V, but would like
        > other options too.

        Hey! Hello. .. Buick?!.....Rover?!. I have converted to a one wire, 12 volt 8 cylinder HEI distributor from some Buick (GM) anchor. Cost me $10 US The only complication from the one I used was a fouling of the distributor housing bottom with the intake manifold and a bolt. I simply removed a little material from the manifold and replaced the bolt with an alternate that fit. Cheap "tune-up" parts, common as mud, and simple. Drops in. Same drive and all. Cheers, Jared

    3.3 Fuel System
      Fuel Pump Cross Reference #582 d.h.lowe Oct 12, 1999
        I have previously identified the fuel pump as one made by G.P.Sorensen Number PE 4011. Tom T. has just dropped by to tell me he has fried another one but this time the Auto Parts supplier has told him. this company has gone out of business. Tom managed to get hold of a catalogue by the manufacturer Master Parts div of Airtex Products of Fairfield Illinois also of Airtex, Burgess Division Feltham Middlesex TW136EH.

        A quick look through the catalogue plus their crossover charts revealed the following info.

        Equivalent of Sorensen............Master E.3900 Filter FS101 (how bloody appropriate)

        Carter Fed. Mogul P60293...FS1
        A.C..... EP. 85. also Capac number with FS6.
        Automotive Accessory Company........EP.3900
        Perfect Circle 602-2064
        General Motors 25116281

        The pump capacity is 20/35 G.P.H at a shut off pressure of 4-6 psi

        The American vehicles using this pump are:
          Chev. Citation 2.5L 4cyl. 1982
          Chev. Celebrity 2.5L 4 cyl 1982
          Chev Camero 2.5L 4 cyl 1982/83.
          Firenza 2.0 L 4 cyl 1983. .
          Cadillac 350 8 cyl. 1979/80

          BMW 1979 4cyl. 2.0L. 320 Series. in tank model.

        Thought you would all like to see this
        Cheers Dave Lowe

      Culinary Advice #747 d.h.lowe Mon Jan 3, 2000
        ONIONS !!! and SAUCE !!! on a bacon and egg buttie !! You heathen. The ONLY acceptable addition is Lee and Perrins "Tincture". :-)
        Dave Lowe David Cantrell wrote:
        > I had a *really* hairy moment on the 1st - exiting a roundabout, the
        > back end of my RHD GS (carrying no load) started to slide. Luckily I
        > caught it in time (and pulled off at the next layby to let my heart slow down
        > and get a bacon and egg sarnie - it had onions in it too, and lotsa brown
        > sauce, and they did a top notch cuppa as well. Mmmmmmmmm......

      Carb Rebuild Kit #918 Ben Smith Feb 29, 2000
        Find a British Car parts store. I've had good luck with Doug's British in Pasadena (2487 E. Colorado Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91107. 626-793-2494 or 626-793-6768). He had two kits that worked. One original kit labeled 175 CD-2SE which had all by one gasket. And ZE-20K which had all of the correct bits (this is the kit for a Jaguar XKE or XJ12. I'd recommend the latter kit. It cost $25 and rebuilt one carb.


    3.4 Cooling System

    3.5 Manifold and Exhaust System

    3.6 Clutch
      Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuilding #751 d.h.lowe Jan 5, 2000
        Ben The cylinder is 5/8 bore. The 8G8837L kit is for 88 and 109 clutch masters and is 3/4" bore. The Rover SD1 car clutch master is the same as the 101 at 5/8". The cylinder is the same as the Hillman Imp if the parts supplier can find one, just change the push rod. Has any one tried fitting an early (Series II or IIA) clutch cylinder to a 101 ? Dave

        > This may be old hat to most of you, but just in case... I was
        > rebuilding the clutch master on my '73. Both it and the one on my
        > '76 are labeled as Girling 625. The rebuild kit for the clutch master
        > cylinder is listed parts book as: 601611. LR claims to have superceded this
        > with 8G8837L. The same kit that rebuilds all CV Masters for Series IIA and
        > III. Nope. The main seal is way too big. There is no way that I could
        > cram it down that bore. I went to British Pacific (the local LR parts place
        > in California) and looked at the other rebuild kits in case the wrong part was
        > put in mine. All were the same. We hunted the shelves for other kits that
        > would work. Nothing. We even re-verified the supercision number. Yes it is
        > good. So BP recommended going to a British car parts place here in Pasadena
        > to find the rebuild kit since they thought it was the same as off of other
        > British cars. They had it. Lockheed part LK31963. aka 8G8806. It's the
        > rebuild kit for Spitfire, TR7 and TR8.

    3.7 Gearbox
      Calculating Mph per 1000 rpm #868 Neil Lawson Feb 16, 2000
        Larger wheels do increase the gearing. For anyone interested this is the formulae:
          Mph per 1000 rpm = 2.976 D/MTRC

          D = Tyre diameter in inches (more accurate to use 2 x rolling radius)
          M = Gear box ratio.
          T = Transfer box ratio
          C = underdrive ratio ( = 1 if not fitted)
          R = differential ratio

        In my case values are as follows:
          I have a 300TDI with Discovery autobox and LT230 transfer box, not the standard 101 LT95

          D - Michelin XL 9.00R16, dia. = 36.1", 1 revolution = 109.52"
          M - final drive on 4 speed auto is 1:1
          T - LT230 = 1.222:1
          C - not fitted = 1.
          R - differential ratio 5.57

          = 109.52
          1 x 1.222 x 1 x 5.57

          = 16.11 mph/1000

        The result is 16.09 mph/1000 rpm, so for the following speeds:
          48 mph = 3,000 rpm
          65 mph = 4,039 rpm
          40.22 mph = 2,500 rpm a more desirable cruising rpm for the 300TDI. .

        The prop shaft on the 101 is already a great source of irritation to the 101 owner, increasing the loading will only amplify the problem. Read Six Stud dated December 1999, Pages 26,27,28, for more details on this argument.

    3.8 Prop Shafts
      Propshaft failure #294 Maas Merkus/Stephen Somers Mar 17, 1999
        Maas/Merkus wrote:
        > "Units are advised that the information detailed in Illustrated Parts Catalog
        >Army Code No 22726,page 17, Fig 18 is incorrect. Items 3,4 and 5 of Fig 18
        >are not fitted to the or rear propshafts because under extreme tolerance
        >conditions the propshaft extends sufficiently to hammer the end cover".

        For your information, these parts /were/ present on our rear prop shaft when it failed recently. There was no apparent end damage to the cover.

    3.9 Rear Axle and Final Drive
      Half Shaft Vendor #1162 Stephen Somers May 30, 2000
        > Any one recommend a good source of replacement 1/2 shafts for the 101?

        Propeller Shaft Assemblies manufactured to order circa GBP 85 + VAT from David MacMahon (Dave Mac Motoring), Coventry (01203 683239).

      Diff Gearing #955 Darren Parsons Mar 4, 2000
        Just change the Crown wheel and pinion. Cradbogs do new sets including collapsible spacer for about £25 per diff. Use the original carrier. It's also a good idea/opportunity to change the pinion oil seal. If you want to go the used route, they are standard LWB rear axles on series vehicles.

        > Due to my101's Tdi conversion I want to up the gearing a little
        > more. I have a high ratio conversion already which does the job well
        > but I still feel it needs a little more
        > I was thinking about the 4.7 diffs. I see them advertised in the
        > landi mags but will they fit my 101 ie. what is the source vehicle
        > for these parts that I need
        > I thought about the overdrive route but I am concerned that it will
        > not handle the torque produced by the tdi.

      Lockers #1035 Chris "V" Apr 13, 2000
        Researching the 101 Salisbury rear for a locker I have found some strange discrepancies. Strangely enough not only does Trac Tech (manufactures of Detroit Locker) lists a Land Rover a Salisbury 8HA axle but it claims it is a 24 spline with 3.54 ratio )product # 225SL36 But it also lists the 101 ! with a Salisbury rear with 22 spline 3.54 ratio (product # 225SL-183) Their web site is Phone in the USS is 810-759-3850 I don't know what the spline count is but I know the gear ratio is not 3.54 it is 5.57. {I really don't think the ratio matters but the spline count sure does. Any one have any more in-depth info, I 'd hate to take the diff apart only to find I ordered the wrong part #.

    3.10 Front Axle and Final Drive

    3.11 Steering
      A steering column modification #158 d.h.lowe Jan 31, 1999
        Fill it to the top of the neck. To minimize the agro of going into the wheel arch to fill the thing I drilled and tapped a 1/4" hole in the steering column just below the cover. I cut a bolt down to about 1/4" in length for the plug. To fill I use my pump oil can and give it a few squirts.

      A steering column failure mode #158 d.h.lowe Jan 31, 1999
        A few years ago my steering box lost the top bearings with the consequence that the column rises and "unwinds" .Total loss of steering. Luckily this happened as one of my sons was moving it on the driveway. On the road this would have had catastrophic consequences. I understand this also occurred to the 101 owner in Ohio whose name escapes me. The strip down showed that the top ball race was rusted allowing excessive wear to the point where there was enough space for the balls to escape from the race. Once this happens there is no retaining mechanism to stop the shaft from unwinding. I urge you all to check whether there is any vertical play in the steering wheel and if there is not to drive it until you have checked the condition of the top race. The bottom bearings are the same as a Series III only the top is specific to the 101. It is essential to keep the oil level topped up if rusting is to be avoided and having a filler plug on the column makes it an easy task. The 101 with its vertical column is more prone to this problem than the Series vehicles which are at an angle and consequently get some "splash" lubrication by either the forward motion or offroading on hills or descents. The 101 would be stood on its nose or rear end before that would happen.

      Track Rod Ends #959 Darren Parsons Mar 5, 2000
        The track rod ends can be repaired using the Ball joint repair kit for the drop arm of Classic R/Rovers and Discos. Look at the track rod end and observe the Circlip. If you remove this circlip all the internals can be removed and replaced with the parts from the kit. For more info there have been a couple of articles in Six Stud.
        BTW the kits are usually less than £10 inc of VAT.

        > the track rod ends on my 101 are showing a small/large amount of.
        > play, but the proper ones for the 101 are priced out of this world,
        > so I was wondering if I could modify ser3 track rod ends and bar.
        > There must be an affordable option as I have just bought new tyres
        > fuel tank and steering relay.

    3.12 Suspension
      Rancho Shock Part Numbers #879 Tom Walsh Feb 18, 2000
        I just purchased 4 rancho 9000's. I'm hoping to install them this weekend. Another list member has the equivalent 5000's on his FC101 and likes them, I have Rancho's on the Disco ( its modified and has the longest 9012's ( I think ) on them, and can take advantage of its extra length )...

        The rational is the adjustability, hopefully I can "soften" the ride up a bit, it tend to be real loud (at least when my wife is in the rig :) These may not be the best shock on earth... I like them, and they are easily available here in the US.

        here are the numbers:
          Rancho RS5000 shock, # 5143...... 2 each ( ~~$35 each ) # 5221...... 2 each

        For 9000's ( ~~$65 each )
        substitute 9 for 5

        I'll post when they're on

      Shock Absorbers #1106 Maas/Merkus May 16, 2000
        According to Dick Cepek's catalogue:
        The Rancho's (5143/9143) for the 101 front are Toyota 4-Runner 4WD (84/85) with 4" lift. The rears (Rancho 5221/9221) are front Dodge/Plymouth Fullsize Pickup with 2/3" lift. This known, may be more brands are possible to fit our 101's.
        Regards Hans.

        > Rancho chocks for the FC101;
        > RS5000 series 5143 front, 5221 rear. RS9000 series 9143 front, 9221 rear.
        > Tom promised to report when above was fitted to his 101.
        > > Yup, sorry I'm so late!
        > > On road there great... they can be set to help soften the ride....
        > > On trail... it depends... most normal trails, soft ( setting 2-3 ) is
        > > good... but real hairy nasty down hills with big berms... require a much
        > > stiffer setting amazingly... I was getting a lot of wheel hop and rear end
        > > bouncing, quite scary ( very, very, very steep ).. admittedly I need to
        > > get some weight in the back of the rig.... But this is backwards to how a
        > > D90/Disco works.... it was as if I needed to install those anti hop bars
        > > from a hot rod ( no!!... I wasn't on the Gas ! ) But, these shocks give
        > > you the freedom to have the adjustments as conditions really change
        > > TomW

      Antisway bar removal #1094 gnbull May 11, 2000
        > Also has any one removed the Anti sway bar from the rear of
        > a 101 radio body to increase articulation? Or does the added weight of the
        > RB make it a necessary

        I would not recommend removing the front or rear sway bars for a trans Africa trip. They are very useful for rough road high speed driving, especially if you carry a load. Not only does it help stabilize the vehicle but it also helps equally distribute load and shock. Furthermore, IMHO without tweaking other elements of the suspension you will not gain significant articulation. The 101 is more of a load carrier as opposed to a axle twister. They just don't really articulate without serious modifications although 750+ pounds helps articulation a lot and keeps the rear firmly planted.


    3.13 Brakes
      Brake Servo #532 Alistair Worsely ox Aug 18, 1999
        Girling are on the case!. It may appear, that the Bakelite dish, rod etc is common, with only the cases changing. The dishes are sold by diameter and centre core. I am trying to find out if the S3 (possibly large flat?) centre is the same. I have given them a data number for it. I will keep the list posted on my outcome. In order to open the servo (I'm not telling you this by the way), place 2 nuts on front brake cylinder bolts. Hold in vice on these nuts. With sleeves over the 4 bolts, place 2 tyre levers across bolts like this
             O      O      .
                  O          .
             O      O
        Apply downward pressure and turn. Rust permitting, it turns 5 degrees and pops (boy do I mean pops) off. If that doesn't work then uncrimp it. It saves a lot of work the right way. Make sure you give op before you bend the bolts but they can be straightened carefully if you don't go too far.

        The Bakelite dish is mounted with a clip inside the toilet roll shaped end/you push down on the washer (spring loaded) and flick the clip out. The assembly pin then comes out the far end. The 2 roll pins and plates then need removing. This requires a special tool or so I am told. I have one and as soon as I get parts from anywhere, I plan to do it. An interim repair to allow me to move the vehicle on the drive saw me fill the back of the dish (but not the vent holes!!!) with fibrous resin having first roughened the surface. This is not a repair recommended for the road. Brakes are too important.

        I will keep you posted. When I have done it, I plan to write with diagrams to the 101 club as I am sure there must be others with similar problems.

      Apportioning Valve #1093 paul sipe May 11, 2000
        > Can some one explain the use of the brake "apportioning valve" and it's use
        > on the brake system? I have never seen one before, and wasn't sure what it's
        > designed to do. Also has any one removed the Anti sway bar from the rear of
        > a 101 radio body to increase articulation? Or does the added weight of the
        > RB make it a necessary ?

        dear chris,
        it's a simple way of automatically valving the hydraulic fluid going to the rear brake cyls when braking hard. under hard braking, there is weight transfer to front from the rear and if the amt of fluid going back to the rears wasn't decreased, the rear wheels would be locking up easily. it has a standard gap setting as in manual. it's set and forget. it does however, by its presence, alter slightly the brake bleeding techniques as you can force the shuttle in the valve all the way off center and turn on the warning light unless you follow instructions. paul

      Apportioning Valve #1094 gnbull May 11, 2000
        >Can some one explain the use of the brake "apportioning valve" and it's
        >use on the brake system?

        The apportioning valve regulates the amount of brake pressure applied to the rear brakes based on the amount of weight in the rear. The more weight in the rear, the more brake pressure to the rear wheel cylinders. This is to give maximum braking potential without having the rear wheels lock up. It is a very useful item especially on smooth low traction roads (snow, dirt sand) where speed is possible but traction is limited.

      Brake Parts #679 Maas/Merkus Nov 25, 1999
        Hi Richard,
        101 front brake-shoes are special concerning the adjuster-pin on the brake shoe, the only difference with front shoes of Series 2.6 and V8 Landrovers. Brake-shoes for 2.25 Series LR are 1" smaller and cannot not be made to fit. If you drift out the brake adjuster-pin and clinch it the other way around the brake shoe becomes a 101-part. The front linings + rivets are the same as the ones on a LWB 2.6 and 109 V8 and so are the front brake-cylinders. Rear brakes ( brake anchor plate, shoes, linings, springs and cylinders) are the same as Series 3 LWB. The brake-drum is different , There is only one of Six Stud.
        Regards Hans.

    3.14 Wheels and Tyres
      101 Tyres #473 Maas/Merkus Jun 6, 1999
        Bargrip alternatives:
          Michelin 9.00x16 XY, XS, XL, these are all 36" tall and almost 10" wide, XZL, 37" tall,10.5" wide.
          Coyote and Buckshot Radial Mudder 305/85x16, also 36"tall.
          Super Swamper Radial 36x12.50x16.
          Yokohama Super Digger 3, 35x11.50x16.
        All above tyres are radials, so the choice is yours.

      Bar Grip Tire Pressures #747 d.h.lowe Mon Jan 3, 2000
        First of all ,welcome to the world of Bar grips. Pressure 30 to 35 p.s.i rear 28 p.s.i. front

      Unimog Rims #861 Tom Tollefson Feb 16, 2000
        Yes, I do have a Unimog (Swiss 404,114) and the Rims have the same hole pattern than the 101,s.They usually come shod with 10.50 x 20 bar treads with about 41" diameter . Very impressive but the y perform like all bar treads perform, like shit. The max size Tyre you can fit onto these rims is 12.50 x 20 (45" dia ) which are available in the XCL pattern. They should still fit into the wheel wells. Used Unimog rims are available for aprox 100 $ US from Dave Shea @ Extreme Mobility in Vancouver BC 604 526 7154

      Unimog Rim Stress #868 Neil Lawson Feb 16, 2000
        I am going to put a damper on the Unimog rims as the Engineer comes out in me. They do fit, they look good, tyres are more available BUT the extra rotational mass will kill your transmission. I was investigating this last August and then I read a warning from Norman Busby, (Land Rover Project Engineer for the FC101), in Six Stud last September 'Don't fit larger wheels the transmission is already under strain from the 900's'. The point struck home with me.

    3.15 Body
      Canvas Hoods #1067 Gerald Patrick Greatrix Apr 30, 2000
        Undercover Covers address is 20 Marldon Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 6BJ Tel:0121 4441986

        > I am in need of a new hood for my 101. Can anyone recommend a UK
        > aftermarket hood manufacturer (preferably with contact details)? Les
        > Adams told me he believes Undercover Covers do a good hood but I have
        > been unable to find any contact details.

    3.16 Paintwork

    3.17 Heating and Ventilation

    3.18 Windscreen wipers and washers

    3.19 Electrical
      Wiring Advice & corrections #613 d.h.lowe Nov 6, 1999
        Morning Howard. First of all let me make a suggestion to the list at large. My GS was in a sad state and especially the electrical dept. with loose wires, green crimped connections, miscellaneous wires by who knows who. I photocopied the wiring diagram and enlarged it to 11x17 size. At this size you can print the identity of every device on the diagram which saves you from looking at the numbers list all the time. I then covered both sides in Mactac clear shelf liner. Now I can take it outside and use it and wipe it clean and keep a spare copy in the vehicle. I took another copy and personally "interviewed" every wire and connector on the vehicle coloring the diagram on the way. Sounds horrendous but it is not that bad a job. Any crappy connections, non standard or incorrectly colour coded wire was replaced from my stock of old harnesses. This put the system back to a point where I could trust it. The wiring diagram is not incorrect it is badly printed and the two ground connections between items 50 and 51(pump and gauge sender) do not always show up. Note that they are both identified as black ground wires. Lets check the ignition switch circuit first. Remember that any white wire is a supply that is dependant on the ignition switch being "on". Get rid of that squadie installed blue wire it is a bandaid not a solution. Power enters the switch on the brown wire (N) and leaves on cranking position on the white red. We know that is OK. In the "run" position power leaves the switch on the white and goes to the "combined" fuses at the fuse block. From the fuse block the power goes ,again through a white wire, to the "upstream" side of the ballast resistor. You say this is ok but why did they install that blue wire?. With the ignition switch in the "on" position are you getting power to the original white wire at the resistor. If not check the fuse block connections. The clips are old and sometimes lose the spring tension so that you get intermittent contact. It`s a bugger looking at the fuse block connections. I still have a crick in my neck. I suggest you take a temporary feed from the battery pos, straight to the upstream side of the resistor and start the motor. Does it keep running? The oil switch which incidentally is available in U.S could be the culprit. Take a temporary feed direct to the white /yellow at the switch and see if it stays running. (don't leave it in too long with the engine off or you will flood the engine. Been there done that. Put a test lamp on the white wire at the oil switch (pull it off the terminal) and see if it has power when the ignition switch is in the on position. If it doesn't it could be this wire coming from the fuse block through the clinch connection. Note that the coil supply and the fuel pump supply both come from the same fuse lugs. Hhhmmmm, clue? Let us know what you find.
        Cheers Dave

        > From: WreckerFC@a...
        > It looks, by the numbers of ignition related problems - and my tale will
        > follow!, that 101's are Y2K non compliant! Will they all die before the years
        > end?
        > OK smartie pants, this ones for the electrically gifted...
        > Assuming the starter is in good health, (mine's toast and currently on the
        > bench of a local'ish Lucas friendly auto electronics repairers in Schenectady
        > NY) why did the engine only run when the starter is engaged... ie., as the
        > engine fires and you release the sprung key position back to the ignition
        > 'on' position the motor instantly dies. This has happened with or without the
        > oil pressure light being on, therefore the oil pressure switch is good,
        > allowing fuel. HOWEVER... with the ign' just in the 'on' position, there is
        > 12v at the coil ( ballast resistor) when the -ve connector is pulled of. The
        > following mods to the wiring had been done by the boys in green or me -
        > 1 A direct link from the ign' switch to the +ve ballast resistor, 'piggy
        > backing' the factory +ve. ( blue, no trace colour) MOD mod.
        > 2 (prob not relevant) New wire (outside the loom) to the fuel gauge from the
        > sender unit. MOD mod.
        > NB the stock wiring of the fuel system is not correct in the manuals - ie the
        > fuel gauge is not in series with the fuel pump, both have a common earth at
        > one of the 6 fuel gauge sender screws also linked to the earth on the starter
        > relay earth, just forward, on the inside of the wheel arch panel.
        > 3 IR switch taken out of the system. My mod, as per the 101 Club wiring
        > conversion.
        > 4 There are a couple of other 'out of loom experiences' that the MOD have
        > done, but I've yet to trace them.
        > Any ideas are welcome! Direct or on the 101 list.
        > Howard.

      Oil light wiring #631 d.h.lowe Nov 7, 1999
        Ev`nin all.Stowe is a nice place ain`t it Howard. Yep the Canadian Customs episode was a right giggle. The only thing is that I cannot get Brett`s "blonde" comments out of my mind.

        I forgot about the oil light. For anyone out there that missed this thread the wiring diagram does not show the oil light in the feed to the oil pressure switch. So, go and get your wiring diagram NOW.......... :-)........draw a smiley face on the white wire directly below item number 49.That`s where the light is located......Ben, George did you do it, I said NOW. Howard how are your winch and gear cables. I was telling Ben how I made up an oiler. I took a piece of 3/4" steel pipe about 8" long and welded a nut on one end and a male air fitting on the other. I then removed the clevis off the cable and screwed the pipe on to the end of the cable and locked it up against the nut . I then filled the pipe with three in one oil and hooked up my air line to it with the pressure set about 30 psi. left it for a while and waited for the oil to bubble out the other end. Bought some four foot lengths of shrink tubing from an electrical supply place and re-covered the whole length. (used my heat gun to shrink it). Should keep most of the crap out. I conveniently omitted the part where I did this in my basement and set the pressure too high which resulted in oil spraying around like one of those lawn watering hoses. Oiy gevalt vot a mess. Cheers Dave

        > Dave,
        > Thanks for the tips.
        > Oh bye the way, you're correct about the black earth wires on the fuel
        > circuit - I guess I overlooked that when I 'copied' the wiring diag for the
        > garage! I can't agree more about the enlarged and laminated schematic for
        > general use! Perhaps the club ought to do this for club shop sale???,
        > including the various circuit mods ie., the IR switch bypass....
        > One thing I know that is wrong with the manual is that the oil pressure
        > warning light in the dash is not shown.
        > Cheers again Howard.

      Alternator Pictures #1118 Alistair Worsley May 20, 2000

    3.20 Instruments

    3.21 Optional Equipment - winch, etc
      How to snorkel a 101? #1144 Alistair Worsley May 24, 2000 Electric Winch #928 BwanaE Mar 1, 2000
        > Has any one modified their 101 to accept an electric winch up front?

        Yep, I mounted the Warn 9000xi in the nose of my 101GS, behind the front bumper and between the frame rails. After some judicious cutting and jiggling around the stock Warn mounting plate fit okay and was welded directly to the frame. A handy place ...everything is sheltered fron the weather and basically out of sight except for the roller fairleads mounted through the front bumper. Did have to relocate the rad overflow bottle though.

        Cheers, Eric.
      Winch cable diameter #980 d.h.lowe Mar 16, 2000
        The cable has to be 9mm do NOT use 3/8".

        > What is the diameter of the 101 winch cable. Is there anything else
        > special about the cable?

    3.22 Service Tools

    3.23 Radio Body Specifics

    3.24 Ambulance Body Specifics

    3.25 Vampire Body Specifics

    3.26 Etc and Misc
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