Sealing Revisited
by Alan Richer
A fellow Rover owner recently sent me an email message, asking if I thought that the goop-in-a-tube gasket makers would provide a proper seal for an oil sump and a transfer case cover.
Honestly, my first thought here was "Good luck...". Gasket sealers and the like are great for emergencies, or if the mating surfaces are damaged, but I don't usually recommend them as a cure-all for the ever-present Rover leaks.
Proper gaskets for these bits are very inexpensive, and can be had from any LR parts dealer. Quality is the keyword here - cheap gaskets are useless. This is one of the spots I'll tend to buy original, as they tend to be made better than the after-market gaskets. That said, I am not above using a product as mentioned above to cement the gasket onto the cover or sump, both for sealing and to hold it in place when reinstalled.
The secret to sealing a joint like this is fourfold:
- Cleanliness will get you a good seal - thoroughly scrape all the mating surfaces of old gasket and sealer, then wipe them down with a solvent to remove small particles that might be left behind.
- A warped cover or pan will not seal. Make sure the cover or pan edges are not warped from over-torquing of the bolts. If so, a bit of gentle flat-filing with a fine file is in order to take the lumps down. If it's not flat, it won't seal. Use a metal straightedge to check for this.
- Don't' overtorque the fasteners. Tighter is not better with gaskets.
- A bit of sealer on one surface (usually the removable bit, not the block) is a good idea. This is my regimen, and it usually works well. Good luck!
Reprinted from the OVLR Newsletter, April 1997
